Heidi For years, the Jokkmokk Winter Market sat at the very top of my bucket list. In February 2025, I finally ticked it off, and I did it in the most iconic way possible: via the Inlandsbanan.
If you are looking for a stress-free, communal, and incredibly scenic way to reach the Arctic Circle, here is why the Inlandsbanan winter expedition to Jokkmokk winter market is the ultimate choice.
Why choose the Inlandsbanan winter expedition?
The Inlandsbanan is famous for its summer journeys, but the winter trip is a different beast entirely. It’s a multi-day package that starts in Östersund and takes you through the heart of the snow-covered Swedish wilderness.
1. The convenience of a guided package
One of the biggest hurdles of the market is finding a hotel. By booking the Inlandsbanan Jokkmokk Winter Market package, your accommodation in the ski village of Kåbdalis is included. You stay in cozy stugas (log cabins) with private saunas—a luxury you’ll appreciate after a day in -20°C!
2. Stops at the Arctic Circle
The train stops specifically at the Arctic Circle for photos. There is something magical about standing on the tracks in the middle of a silent, frozen forest, knowing you’ve officially entered the polar region.
The journey starts: Östersund
My adventure started with a night train from Stockholm to Östersund, arriving before dawn. There is a specific magic to Östersund in winter. It wasn’t my first visit to this charming city on the shores of Lake Storsjön. After a cosy breakfast at a local coffee house, my friend and I walked to Jamtli. In the afternoon we explored Vinterparken, a winter festival on the frozen Lake Storsjön, where we toasted sausages over open fires.
The Inlandsbanan package included a stay at a nice hotel with a top-floor wellness area. Booking that sauna session was the perfect way to warm up before the real “expedition” began. Later that evening, we met our fellow travellers over a traditional Swedish buffet—a great way for the group to connect.
The Inlandsbanan: an expedition on rails
The next morning, we boarded the iconic red train. In summer, it feels like a scenic commuter; in winter, it feels like a polar expedition. The train moves through hundreds of kilometres of snow-laden forests. We spotted reindeer and even a few elk through the frost-framed windows.
The train makes several curated stops, including:
- The Railway Museum.
- Bergmans Fisk & Vilt: A delicatessen where we stopped for a fantastic local lunch.
- The Arctic Circle: Where we stepped out into the biting air for a celebratory photo.
Important Note: Nature is the boss here. The train has a “cold limit” of -28°C. If it drops lower, the journey continues by bus. We were lucky—the thermometer stayed just on the right side of the line!
Our basecamp: Kåbdalis
Our home for three nights was the Blåfjellsstugby in the ski village of Kåbdalis. I shared a spacious, three-bedroom stuga (cabin) with a lovely Swedish couple. The Inlandsbanan team had thought of everything—there was a cheese and charcuterie platter waiting in our fridge, and the ‘väsktransfer’ (luggage service) meant we didn’t have to lug bags through the snow. Having our own private sauna to dive into each evening was the ultimate luxury.
Two days of magic at the market
A one-hour train ride from Kåbdalis brought us into Jokkmokk. Armed with a program booklet provided on the train, I set out to explore. The energy was incredible.
My highlights:
- The Reindeer Race: Watching reindeer gallop across the frozen Lake Talvatis is a spectacle I will never forget.
- Sami Culture at Ájtte: Our Inlandsbanan tickets included entry to the Ájtte Museum, which is essential for understanding the deep history of the Sami people.
- The Food: I became obsessed with Västerbottenost and chanterelle toast. Sitting in a smoke-filled Lávvu (tent) eating hot fish soup while the wood fire crackled is the quintessential Jokkmokk experience.
Optional: a trip to the Icehotel
On day four, you can choose between a second day at Jokkmokk market or an optional bus trip to Jukkasjärvi to visit the famous Icehotel, where a completely new hotel is built from the ice of the Torne river every year. I had previously stayed overnight in the ijshotel en koos zelf voor een tweede dag op de markt.
A parting gift: the Northern Lights
The journey back to Östersund held one final surprise. During dinner at Dorotea Camp, my Aurora app started buzzing. We kept running outside between courses, catching glimpses of photographic light. But the real show happened just before we reached Östersund: a vibrant green stripe appeared in the sky from the train window. We practically ran from the station to a nearby bridge to watch the lights dance over the city.
Is the Inlandsbanan worth it?
If you’re a solo traveller or someone who prefers not to navigate icy Arctic roads in a rental car, the Inlandsbanan package is unbeatable. It removes the stress of transport and accommodation—which are notoriously difficult to book—allowing you to focus entirely on the magic of the market.
For full details on dates, tickets, and packing lists, check out my Ultimate Guide to Jokkmokk.
