Heidi Have you ever had that feeling where you just want to put the world on ‘pause’? Where you don’t want to rush from one highlight to the next, but truly want to feel the landscape changing beneath your feet (or in this case, under the rails)? That is exactly what a train journey with the Inlandsbanan does to you.
I’ve been on many train trips across Sweden, but nothing quite compares to this. The gentle swaying of the carriages and the endless views of deep blue lakes and dense forests bring me a sense of peace like nothing else. In this article, I’ll take you along the Inlandsbanan—a 1,300-kilometre railway line stretching from Mora in Dalarna to far above the Arctic Circle in Gällivare.
What is the Inlandsbanan?
The Inlandsbanan isn’t just a train link; it’s a historic monument on rails. Running right through the heart of the Swedish interior, the track was largely laid by hand between 1908 and 1937. Just imagine: workmen carrying heavy wooden sleepers weighing up to 100kg on their shoulders to make this route possible!
Today, it is the way to travel for lovers of slow travel. The iconic red trains trundle along at a leisurely maximum speed of 80 km/h. That might sound slow, but trust me: you wouldn’t want to go any faster. It gives you all the time in the world to spot moose and reindeer, which regularly stand curiously by (or even on!) the tracks.
A word to the wise: The train only runs each section once a day, and only during specific weeks of the year. Don’t miss your train, or you’ll be waiting 24 hours for the next one!
My personal experiences: From summer sun to winter chills
I’ve experienced the Inlandsbanan in different seasons, and each has its own magic. In the summer, the landscape is bathed in endless green and, above the Arctic Circle, the sun simply never sets. In winter, the journey transforms into a true expedition through a white fairytale land—complete with the Northern Lights as the ultimate cherry on top.
Want to read my detailed reports for each leg of the journey? Be sure to click through to these articles:
- From Mora to Östersund: The start of the adventure – Read how I nearly missed the train in Mora and my first encounter with the Swedish wilderness.
- From Östersund to Gällivare: Crossing the Arctic Circle – A report on the most spectacular stops, wild camping, and Bergmans’ legendary salmon kebab.
- Southbound with the Inlandsbanan: Slow travel at its best – Why the journey back south is absolutely worth the trip.
- Inlandsbanan in winter to Jokkmokk Market – A magical winter journey to Lapland’s oldest market, including reindeer races and the aurora.
The best stops along the line
What makes the Inlandsbanan so unique is that the train stops for the experience. The on-board guides tell you all about the history, and the train halts at key landmarks so you can hop off to take photos or sample local delicacies.
- Storstupet and Helvetesfallet (near Mora) Shortly after leaving Mora, you’ll pass the impressive canyon of the River Ämån. The train slows down on the 60-metre-high bridge at Storstupet. The view into the depths is dizzying!
- Bergmans Fisk & Vilt (Vilhelmina) Located right by Vilhelmina Norra station, you’ll find this award-winning fish smokery. The train stops here long enough for lunch. My tip? The varmrökt pepparlax (hot-smoked pepper salmon). I have honestly never tasted better salmon.
- The Arctic Circle (Polcirkeln) The ultimate photo op. The train stops in the middle of nature at the sign marking the Arctic Circle. You’ll even receive an official certificate on board as proof that you’ve crossed this magical border.
- The Inlandsbanan Museum in Sorsele Inside the old station building at Sorsele, you can learn all about the harsh conditions the workers endured to build the line. It’s a small but incredibly atmospheric museum that really brings history to life.
Practicalities: How to book
There are several ways to travel. Some people buy an Inlandsbanan Card (which gives you 14 days of unlimited travel), while others opt for a fully organised package including hotels and excursions.
- Seat Reservations: Highly recommended, especially in high season (mid-June to early August). Sometimes entire carriages are booked for tour groups. You don’t want to be left standing on the platform because there isn’t a single seat left…
- Food on board: You can pre-order your meals for the next stop through the train stewards. That way, your dish is ready the moment the train pulls in. Clever and efficient!
- Website: You can find all current timetables and booking options at inlandsbanan.se.
Where to stay: My recommendations
Along the 1,300 kilometres, there are countless spots to spend the night. Whether you like comfortable hotels or prefer a cosy stuga (cabin) on a campsite, there is something for everyone. Thanks to Allemansrätten (the Right of Public Access), you can even go wild camping—just make sure you stick to the local regulations!
| Town | Hotel Suggestion | Campsite / B&B |
| Mora | Mora Hotell & Spa (lovely wellness!) | Mora Camping (near Lake Siljan) |
| Östersund | Clarion Hotel Grand (central & great breakfast) | Östersund Camping |
| Gällivare | Grand Hotel Lapland (right by the station) | Gällivare Camping |
| Jokkmokk | Hotel Åkerlund | Arctic Camp Jokkmokk |
| Arvidsjaur | Hotell Laponia | Camp Gielas |
| Vilhelmina | Hotell Wilhelmina | Saiva Camping |
| Sorsele | Hotell Gästis | Sorsele Camping |
Extra tip for winter travellers: If you’re heading to the Jokkmokk Market, stay in Kåbdalis. The Blåfjellsstugby there is fantastic: cosy apartments with their own sauna. Perfect for warming up after a day in the cold!
What to pack (The Essentials)
Travelling on the Inlandsbanan requires a bit of strategy. Your main luggage can usually stay in a dedicated rack on the train, but you don’t want to be unzipping your suitcase every time the train stops for a short walk.
- The ‘Train Bag’: Take a smaller, separate bag to keep at your seat. Pack your camera, power bank, sunglasses, a bottle of water, and your guidebook here.
- Layers: Even in summer, it can get chilly in the North. Bring a windproof jacket and perhaps some merino wool base layers.
- Winter Essentials: Going in winter? Wool is your best friend. Thermal underwear (no cotton!), thick woollen socks, and hand warmers are absolute lifesavers.
- Insect Repellent: During the summer months, the Swedish mosquitoes in Lapland can be rather enthusiastic. Be prepared!
- Binoculars: To get a proper look at the moose, reindeer, and birds in the distance.
Why you should take this trip
The Inlandsbanan is more than just a mode of transport; it’s an experience. You’ll meet fellow travellers from all over the world, share stories with the guides, and see a side of Sweden you’d never discover from a car. It is the ultimate way to truly understand the vastness of Swedish Lapland.
Are you ready to hop on the red train? Do you have any questions about the route, or would you like to share your own experience? Let me know in the comments!
